A rainfall record

Remember my blog entries where I fussed about the weather? I feel so validated—I wasn't imagining the severity of our first (and hopefully worst) wet season in Costa Rica. According to the Instituto Meteorológico Nacional—the national weather service—October 2007 was the rainiest month on record in Costa Rica's history.

I'm actually relieved, because I have hope for a tamer wet season next year.

Saturday, in the park…

We demonstrated our prowess as skilled beachcombers again on Saturday morning. This time Lauren rode Dan's shoulders—the perfect vantage point for spotting sand dollars. We collected more than eighty in all, many of which made it back to Santa Ana unscathed.

We spent most of this relaxing day at the third beach in Manuel Antonio—it was the perfect day for it, the beach was gorgeous, and the water temperature was ideal. Dan and I commented that we truly felt like we were in paradise.

The girls tried out their new snorkel kits, and Dan and Erin did a little snorkeling out by the rocks. They didn’t see as much as they’d have liked because of the waves, so we’re hoping to go to a spot specifically for snorkeling once Lauren gets more proficient at it (she has been practicing in the pool here at home). Erin is a natural.

We saw several animals at the beach, including a raccoon family with four or five adorable babies. They looked like a pack of robbers with their black masks as they scampered around, hoping to forage in an unsuspecting swimmer's backpack. We had hung our things in a tree on the beach slightly over the water, hoping they’d be safer from sly raccoons—but of course we had to keep our eyes out for those sneaky monkeys, too.

After a day in the sand and sun, we went to Mi Lugar (known as Ronny’s Place) for dinner. The food was tasty, the view was outstanding, and—bonus!—they placed all songs from the 80s on the speakers, too. (What more can one want?)

We returned to our bungalow just in time for the sunset. Everyone sat on the porch and we talked, watched the bats fly by, and were visited by a few jumpy frogs, too.

All four of us stayed up a little later that night, not realizing that we’d have company soon. Dan and I both awoke at 11:45 to the loudest, craziest noise—howler monkeys! It’s incredible how ear-splitting a group of rowdy howler monkeys can be. Only Lauren slept through the seemingly endless racket which continued for an hour. The next morning we confirmed with our Costa Rican neighbor that what we heard were monkeys. Oh yes, he nodded knowingly, “los monos” were the source of the ruckus.

Dan and I went for a short walk on the beach alone on Sunday morning. (The kids were too tired—we did it! We completely wore them out!!). We were all a bit sad to pack up and leave the beach, but it was time to get home. After a short drive on the road, we stopped in Jacó for breakfast at a Colombian restaurant and resumed our Sunday drive on a lovely day.

You can click here to see more photos of our trip.

¡Pura Vida!

Monkeying around on the day after Thanksgiving

Read the blog before or after viewing the pictures—you choose. Here's the photo album for day two of our Thanksgiving vacation (I recommend the slideshow).

We woke early on our first full day of vacation—around 6am, which is when we normally get up here in Costa Rica. Everyone’s first thought was to head for the beach to check for creatures in tide pools and shells to take home. We especially wanted to find sand dollars after noticing the large collection of sand dollars the owners of the bungalow had displayed in a bowl on the table.

It took a while, but I found the first sand dollar. Then Dan found one, then both of the girls…it seemed suddenly that they were everywhere and we were the mighty sand dollar hunters, all aiming for the most treasures. Erin found six at once! We walked the beach for two hours and returned to our cabin with a full pail.

After a filling breakfast of eggs, gallo pinto, and empanadas in our little kitchen, we headed south to Manuel Antonio National Park—one of the top destinations for anyone visiting Costa Rica and something we’ve been anxious to see since we first learned we were moving.

On our way we crossed a couple of wild bridges (see the previous blog) that had our hearts pounding. After one bridge crossing we saw a family selling pipas (coconuts) with straws stuck in them.

We also saw a couple of guys—at different times—cruising the highway on bikes and wielding their long-handled machetes. We nicknamed these fellows Grim Reapers on Bicycles.

After passing some great landscape and small villages, we entered the beach town of Quepos and made our way up the hillside into the absolutely gorgeous Manuel Antonio. Dan and I loved this drive, where the windy road is lined with eclectic shops, restaurants, and hotels. A few times we noticed authentic streets signs telling drivers to slow down—each accompanied by a silhouette of a person, dog, sloth, and monkey.

After a few miles we came to the end of the road. Here the sides of the street were lined with cars and vendors on the beach. The road made a loop, and there was a beach at the end and a small tree-, rock-, and mud-filled parking area. Unbelievably, this was the lot for those visiting the park. It was certainly a different experience from visiting a national park in the United States—no maps to purchase, no gift shops, no commercialism. Frankly, we weren’t even sure we were at the park at first.

To get to the park itself, one has to walk across the beach and then can choose either to wade through the Camaronera stream or take a small rowboat to access the rainforest of Manuel Antonio. We weren’t in beachwear, so we took the boat (thankfully one of the guides in the boat kept bailing, since there was a leak). At this point we had also decided to spend the extra money ($20 each) to have a park guide with us. Our guide’s name was Henry—he was a Tico who spoke good English and carried a telescope. Without him and his trusty scope we wouldn’t have seen a lot of what we did.

Incidentally, it is about $7 for a non-resident tourist to enter Manuel Antonio, but for us (we’re now official, card-carrying residents!) it was only about $2 each—a cheap price to visit a park with fantastic beaches, beautiful rainforest, and more than 100 mammal species.

We hadn’t even entered the park when we saw our first monkey in a tree. And once we were in the park—WOW! On this day we saw monkeys, several kinds of lizards, sloths, coatimundis, a kingfisher, bats, giant grasshoppers, even a crocodile! You can see pictures of all these cool animals and plants too (beautiful palms, guava trees, banana leaves, the poisonous manzanillo trees that burn if you touch them, bamboo…) on the online photo album. The pictures truly are worth a thousand words—I can’t do justice to how amazing this experience was.

Of all the animals, the monkeys undoubtedly put on the best show. At one point near the beach we ran across a monkey who had stolen a package of crackers from someone (naughty monkey!). His monkey buddies were chasing him through the trees trying to get a snack, but the cracker monkey did not want to share. When he dropped a cracker and the guy next to me picked it up, the monkey got mad. He was behind Erin and me, and when Dan told us to turn around and we saw this creature baring his teeth, we jumped (but then I got a great picture before I beat a hasty exit!).

Another neat creature we saw was the Jesus Christ lizard, aptly named because he is so fast he can literally run across the water.

How about the howler monkeys? They were probably at least a mile or two away when we heard their bellowing, and wow was it loud!

Unfortunately we did not get to see a toucan on this trip; apparently they are rare to see other than in January and February when they are nesting.

We hiked for about two and half hours until we decided the girls’ legs were wearing out and it was time to get something to eat. We had the most incredible time on our first trip to Manuel Antonio—and still can’t believe we saw all these animals in their natural habits.

For our late lunch/early dinner, we visited a unique restaurant called El Avión (The Plane). The eatery is centered around a Fairchild C-123—an aircraft previously owned by the CIA that played a major role in the scandalous Iran-Contra Affair of the mid-80s. The owners of the restaurant bought the plane in 2000, disassembled it into seven sections, and shipped it to its current location in Quepos on the side of a cliff. Here it has become part of this restaurant with tasty seafood, frequent animal sightings (we saw monkeys and a mama and baby sloth), and breathtaking views of the ocean and rainforest. There is even a small bar inside the plane’s fuselage.

The girls really liked this place—they had straws with cute little paper fruits in their drinks, which was totally cool, they said. The food was excellent and we had fried calamari with a fruity-ginger sauce for an appetizer. Lauren liked it quite a bit and was shocked when I told her calamari is seafood (I didn’t go so far as to tell her it’s squid).

After returning to our bungalow, the girls enjoyed playing on the beach, while Dan and I relaxed and admired the brilliant sunset over the ocean. Everyone fell asleep early again—another busy day was to come.

The bridges of Puntarenas Province

While the country’s major highways are certainly an improvement over the streets we drive in town, they are still a far cry from the interstates of the US. It’s not unusual for buses to stop on the highway to pick someone up at seemingly random points. People walk on the extremely narrow shoulders—sometimes three and four people across, they stray onto the highway itself. Women walk here with babies and children, people ride their bicycles, dirt bikes, and horses right down the road. We’ve seen oxen on the highway, pulling carts—and on this trip we met up with a man walking his cows the wrong way on the highway, directly toward us. It’s just hard to believe, sometimes.

There are often few to no line markings, safety signs, or even shoulders on the highway. But there are frequent potholes, drop-offs without guardrails, and areas where the road has fallen away. One time we saw a part of the highway missing and the only marking was a huge stick poking out of the lane with a rag hanging on it.

So back to our trip…the road from Jacó to Manuel Antonio was undoubtedly the best we have seen in Costa Rica thus far. It was wide, lined, and relatively smooth in most places (where the road was bad, there were signs indicating “carretera en mal estado”—highway in bad shape). Yet it wasn’t the road itself that freaked out three of the four members of our family (Lauren is nearly unflappable), it was the temporary bridges. The "You Have Got to Be Kidding Me, I’m Not Going Over That!!!" bridges.

I sent one picture earlier of the suspension bridge between Puriscal and Orotina. We thought this bridge was a bit extreme. We couldn’t have been more wrong. I now think that bridge is a piece of cake.

Moving on…We approached our first true Bridge of Doom on the south side of Parrita. Rumor has it that this bridge has been under construction for many years. We waited in a line of traffic to cross with no idea what we were in for. As we got closer, we saw big commercial trucks going over. Later it occurred to me that (1) if these huge vehicles could cross, the bridge must be safe, and (2) those huge trucks were just weakening the bridge for the rest of us who had to drive across.

Just before the bridge, there is a sign that says “puente angosto.” This means “narrow bridge,” but I really think the “angosto” is a cognate for “angst.” The Bridge of Angst would be a most appropriate moniker: This incredible feat of engineering was truly a one-lane wonder.


Pictures don’t do the bridge justice, nor do words, but both will have to suffice to describe this seemingly ancient—definitely rickety!—railroad bridge, which has rails placed width-wise to use as the driving surface with planks in place for the tire tracks. The rails were not secured to the support beams beneath, and we could see them shifting under the pressure of the vehicles ahead. In some places the rails were permanently bent toward the water 50 feet below—not exactly reassuring to those traversing the bridge. Click here for photos of the suspension bridge near Orotina and more pictures of the Bridge of Doom in Parrita.

The second bridge is further south, closer to Quepos. This bridge was worse than the first. When we saw the sign “puente en construccion adelante” (bridge under construction ahead) we knew it couldn’t be good.

We crossed these two bridges eight times on this trip, but the most unnerving was the final time as we headed north. The truck in front of us stopped on the bridge and the driver got out. I told Dan that if I heard a clanking noise I was going to lose it. Sure enough, the sound of metal hitting metal rang out; the man was adjusting one of the planks which must have shifted dangerously from the previous vehicle. It was so unbelievable that I exploded with nervous, rather maniacal laughter the entire way across.

Giving thanks in Costa Rica

There wasn’t any snow, nor was there a Macy’s parade, or even Green Bay football for us on our first Thanksgiving here in Central America. The kids had time off from school, and Dan took vacation days from work, so we decided to forgo the turkey with all the fixings and instead set off on a family adventure: a trip down the Pacific coast to the beach and Manuel Antonio National Park.

Here’s a snapshot of the first day of our memorable vacation, accompanied by a small online photo album, best viewed as a slideshow. (Additional entries about this vacation to follow….)

We began our trip by climbing up from the valley and into the mountains. It was a beautiful morning, and the landscape was incredibly lush and green, dotted with tropical flowers and farms. Included in this variety of interesting vegetation were trees we nicknamed ginger trees, as the trunks looked like giant ginger roots.


We passed through few towns, most notably Cuidad Colón and the picturesque Santiago de Puriscal (where we stopped twice to ask directions, as the roads are not named or marked, and maps are nearly non-existent), and then began a trek on twisting trails through some awesome, mountainous country. I should note, the last time we passed through the mountains to the coast we took a different route—one with much more traffic, lots of buses and mammoth trucks, and too many drop-offs (no guard rails!) on skinny roads for my liking. It’s scary driving along a mountain “highway” where part of the road has washed out and a massive tour bus is barreling down the adjacent lane in your direction. The route we took on this trip, recommended by our friend Paul, was remarkably better.

The highway (two-lane, but paved) is narrow, and commercial traffic is prohibited on the route from Puriscal to Orotina, making the trip much more relaxing and enjoyable. Reasons for this became even more evident when, just before reaching Orotina, we came upon a narrow, one-lane suspension bridge. (The bridges we saw on this trip merit their own blog entry, coming soon—stay tuned for more photos that won’t disappoint.)

Once past Orotina, we stopped for a break at the Rio Tárcoles. We’d been here before—an area rumored to have one of the highest concentrations of crocodiles in the world—and knew we’d see plenty of crocs from our safe vantage point on the bridge spanning the river. Dan got some good photos of these and also saw a cow standing near the water’s edge, which he quickly labeled “target.”

From the river, we continued our drive down the coast until we came to Playa Bejuco (Bejuco Beach), between Jacó and Quepos. Here in this beautiful open coastal town we found the quiet little beach bungalow we’d rented for the trip. We unpacked quickly, had lunch at a nearby restaurant (one of the few in the area), and headed to the huge expanse of nearly deserted beach. (It looks ominously dark in the photos, but it was just a little overcast and nearing nightfall. The sun sets around dinnertime in Costa Rica, year-round.) Dan and I especially enjoyed watching the girls play a made-up game of “Drop Zone” on their “own private island” and seeing little crabs working furiously on the beach and popping in and out of their holes in the sand.

We drove into Parrita for dinner at an Italian restaurant where we all had Thanksgiving pie—pizza pie, of course! We met the owner, a friendly Italian fellow, and enjoyed a bit of conversation with him before heading back to our bungalow (Spanish being the common language between us). The girls slept on an air mattress in the kitchen, while Dan and I fell asleep early in the adjoining bedroom. We knew the following day was to bring exciting new experiences for us all.

This Thanksgiving our family has so much to be thankful for, not the least of which is the gift of opportunity to share our lives together on this incredible adventure of living in Costa Rica. We’re grateful for a God that loves us, family at home who we treasure, friends old and new alike, and blessings too numerous to name.

Put a little jelly on the Bimbo

Our most-purchased brand of bread in Costa Rica? Bimbo. All you non-Spanish speakers say it with me: BEEM-bo.

Yep, it’s the most popular sandwich bread around. We see Bimbo ads scrawled across trucks, billboards, even clothing. Erin loves it; she wants a shirt that says Bimbo.

I told her she could get one only if she promises never to wear it in the United States. Girl's gotta keep her reputation, you know.

Getting clean the Tico way

We're ever so grateful for the hot water heater in our home. Plumbed-in hot water, even in bathrooms, is not the norm in Costa Rica. Many Ticos are accustomed to cool, brisk showers in the morning (sure to wake up any sleepyhead!), but those without hot water heaters who long for something more soothing do have an option: the suicide shower.

This scary contraption, rumored to be common throughout much of Latin America, has a well-earned name; it hooks up to the shower head where coils heat the water just before it rains down. Wires are exposed, an electrical current is flowing through them...water and voltage—a potentially lethal combination!

I've heard stories (and I believe them) about people receiving shocks while shampooing or seeing blue flashes from the shower head.

Lest you think I'm enjoying a hearty laugh at your expense, allow me to share some proof. Here are a couple of pictures sent to me, by request, from my expat friends on my Costa Rica Yahoo group:

There you have it: the suicide shower. Talk about invigorating—there's nothing like risking electrocution for hot water in the morning!

A heaping plate of what?

Friday was filled with anticipation for Lauren and her friend Isabel. Thoughout the day the two whispered excitedly about their after-school play date at Isabel’s house.

When we picked Lauren up at 6:30, she told us about her afternoon. She and her friend ran to the playground, made up a game involving a giant boulder and a soccer ball, and dressed up like princesses. Lauren happily relayed that she and her adorable Spanish friend have a lot in common (even their favorite color—yellow) and are the best of friends…but for one thing. Isabel’s family was going to have octopus for supper. “And Isabel LIKES octopus!” said my daughter in disbelief.

Lauren swears she saw Isabel’s mom chop the head off the octopus and that she counted all eight tentacles. “There were like a hundred suction cups!”

A cheer went up from the back seat when I told my little girl our family was having lasagna—not octopus—for dinner. She was saved; we'd picked her up just in the nick of time.

¡Vivan los Empacadores!

Anytime we get the Packers on TV in Costa Rica is a good time—no matter that a game may be broadcast in Spanish, as it was yesterday when we were treated to los Empacadores de Green Bay rivaling los Jefes de Kansas City.

Yep, those are their Spanish names. So funny to hear the Packers called los Empacadores. So unusual to hear names like Brett Favre and Donald Driver thrown in with the all-Español broadcast. So wonderful to hear the announcer exclaim, "¡Que bonita la recepción!" when Favre passed to Jennings in the fourth quarter.

Wondering what your team is known as in the Spanish-speaking world of American football? Here are a few more team names, for fun...

Bengalíes de Cincinnati
Osos de Chicago
Vikingos de Minnesota
Acereros de Pittsburgh
Vaqueros de Dallas
Carneros de San Louis
Gigantes de Nueva York

We've left behind a lot of things we love in the United States to pursue our Costa Rican adventure, but we are very grateful—and admittedly relieved—that we haven't had to miss this so-far glorious season of Green Bay football.

!Pura Fútbol Americano!

Knock, knock, knock…Halloween!

Costa Rica has an abundance of far-out freaky legends to scare the pants off little Ticos. Next to these haunting tales passed down through the ages, our gringo-imported Halloween is just a fabulous candy-fest and the perfect excuse to dress up, now enjoyed here in Costa Rica by families in expat-heavy communities.

Our kids were thrilled to continue their lifelong Halloween tradition—it’s the allure of the sugar, of course.

Last Friday we went to Halloween Family Night at school (remember, it’s an American school), to enjoy trick-or-treating, games, and pizza. For many of the CDS kids, this was their first experience with Halloween. This was the case for our neighbors from Argentina, whose children were tickled to don costumes and get sacks of candy just for being cute.

The middle school kids decorated all the classroom doors, and the elementary students—under the guise of witches, princesses, cowboys, and skeletons—wandered the darkened school grounds to collect their goodies. The older kids were very creative with their door decorating and their own costumes, and we saw some teachers dressed up too. Everyone’s favorite principal, Mr. Large, even made an appearance as Shrek.

Once our girls secured their loot, we decided not to wait in the big line for pizza and instead went to our favorite pizza place, La Fabbrica. It was a gorgeous night and we sat in the open-air restaurant and noshed on great food, saw a few other familiar faces from school, and had some good family time together. I’m sure the wait staff wondered why Dan and I showed up for dinner at their restaurant with a world-class surgeon in scrubs and a rambunctious little puppy with floppy brown ears.

Fast forward to Wednesday, a rainy Halloween night! A Tica in our neighborhood passed out flyers to see who wanted to participate in Halloween, and of course we accepted. We hung black and orange balloons outside the house to let everyone know we were open for business. Then while Dan handed out candy, I took the girls from door to door.

After our first house, we met up with another family. As our children approached the next door together, mine called out “trick-or-treat!” while the others shouted out “Halloween!” Whaaaa? What was this? I looked at the other mom and she explained that nobody understands what “trick-or-treat” means, so the little Tico kids just call out “Halloween!”

I had to hold back the laughter, it was so funny. The more I heard these kids yelling “Halloween!” at the doors, the more amused I was. I also had to suppress giggles when one mom commented on what a shame it was to be so cold on Halloween (the temp was about 65 degrees). I told her I’ve seen snow on Halloween, and she was in disbelief. I’m learning that a lot of people I meet here really have no concept of snow and how cold “cold” truly is. But hey, if 65 degrees is cold on Halloween, my family can brave the weather.

We didn’t have as many houses to visit as usual—and the girls didn’t do their “speed trick-or-treating” in a big subdivision with Dan this year, as is tradition—but the kids were very happy with their haul. To their delight, Costa Ricans are more than generous with the amount and type of candy they hand out.

After the trick-or-treating we met up with several other families in our community clubhouse for pizza (yes, more pizza—people love pizza here, I’m telling you). The kids ran around and played games and ate too much candy and too much pizza, while Dan and I had a chance to talk with our neighbors and get a late supper. We were the only Americans there, I might add—kind of funny considering it was a Halloween celebration—but we had a chance to practice our Spanish (always a challenge when I’m talking to the Argentineans!) and find out what’s going on in the neighborhood.

The girls were excited to call Grandma and Grandpa when we got home and tell them about their night. My poor little Lauren puppy’s eyes were drooping as I prompted her to say goodnight and hand me the phone.

On a final note, there was serious bartering going on in our kitchen last night, as Dan was trading gum suckers with the kids for candy he wanted from their stash. Let me tell you, the three of them are some tough customers, and all of Dan’s Halloween candy was hard-earned through real negotiations. I think if it were acceptable for a 6’3” kid to travel from house to house in costume, Dan would do it solely for the chocolate and Skittles.

Young citizens of the world

In a blaze of colorful costumes, the kids of Country Day School participated in an exciting and moving celebration of United Nations Day on Friday. The event, held in the CDS gymnasium, began with a parade of nations reminiscent of those held at the opening ceremonies of the Olympics.

The kids—from a whopping 45 countries!—were allowed to wear native costumes to school representing their home nations. To start the ceremony, the children lined up in the corridors, eagerly awaiting their turn to enter the gym. As Mr. Large, the principal, announced each country, children (sometimes many, sometimes just one) marched in to that country’s music while bearing the flag of their nation. There was great applause for all of the kids, with Costa Rica prompting an explosive cheer from everyone.

It was so touching to see these proud little kids joining together to celebrate their patriotism, our world, and the unity of their own student body. I got teary-eyed when the United States was announced and I saw my two smiling daughters proudly entering the gym in their homemade "USA" shirts and red, white, and blue ponytail holders.

Some of the kids' costumes were breathtaking: the little Korean children in beautiful native clothing, the Spanish girls in their cheery flamenco dresses, the throng of Mexican amigos with sombreros and serapes, the Ticas in their billowy skirts and blouses, and the charming little French boy with the beret and a loaf of bread in his sack.

Once the parade was done, the kids sang a song together about friendship, and then a group of students from each grade took turns performing. Lauren’s class did a song and dance from Israel, while Erin’s class performed a traditional African dance. Halfway through the dance, three of the African parents (also in native dress) joined the kids (who were floundering a bit), and the place was electrified—parents, teachers, and kids were cheering and clapping.

Finally, the American teachers danced to a High School Musical song in representation of the United States—they were surprisingly talented and hip! You can imagine the hoots and hollers from the kids as they watched several of their teachers getting their groove on. I’ve gotta admit, I was impressed.

I tried to get some good photos, but the lighting made it difficult and there was so much movement—but you can see some of what was going on in this web album (again, I recommend viewing it as a slideshow).

This is by far one of the most unique, inspiring things I’ve ever seen at an elementary school, and it will be a very special memory for us all.

Irazú, I see you!

On Tuesday, Erin’s class took a field trip to Irazú Volcano (Volcán Irazú), and I was able to snag a seat on their bus and tag along. Irazú is one of several volcanoes in this small country and lies in the Cordillera Central, close to the city of Cartago (the former capital of Costa Rica). It is protected in a national park.

We began our trip at the school in Escazú and traveled through San José, San Pedro, Curridabat, and then Cartago.

At a junction near the agricultural town of Cot, we saw a statue of Jesus with his arms outstretched; here, Christ is said to be embracing the entire valley. We turned left here and began our trip up the mountain.

(Incidentally, the trip up was just as you’d expect with a busload of fourth graders. They were a musical bunch, and I heard familiar tunes in English and some new-to-me “bus songs” in Spanish too.)

On our way up the southern slope of the volcano we saw many onion, potato, and cabbage farms. The fertile soil here from previous years of volcanic activity makes this area good farmland. We also saw many small dairy farms. Erin and I shared a private laugh as we passed one farm and could smell the cows—and most of the kids erupted with “Ewwww!” Erin just looked at me with a grin and said, “Mom, I’ve been to Wisconsin so many times I didn’t even think anything of it.” That’s my girl!!

The trip up was very slow (think big bus, steep drive!), but thankfully there were no sheer drop-offs (especially because I had a window seat on the “edge” side of the mountain!). We saw some great Tico villages with houses in a variety of bright hues.

We also had to put on our jackets as we climbed the volcano because the temperature dropped significantly, which I really enjoyed. I must admit I also got a kick out of the Costa Rican children donning hats, gloves, and scarves for the “cold” day! Apparently it can get quite chilly on Irazú (though I doubt it dropped below 65 while we were there), with an average temperature of 45 degrees and occasional frosts. It rains often too, but thankfully we felt just a few drops during our visit. (There's a rumor that on rare clear days you can see the Pacific and Caribbean from the volcano’s summit—which would have been awesome. Irazú is the highest active volcano in the country.)

We began exploring as soon as we arrived at Irazú, and the main attractions were two giant craters. The first was Diego de la Haya, the second was Crater Principal. Both craters were amazing, but the principal crater was especially magnificent, with a neon green lake created by minerals washed into sulfuric acid by frequent rainfall.

The remaining part of the volcano is a bit surreal—kind of a moonscape with its windswept fields of black volcanic sand. The last eruption of Irazú spanned the years of 1963 to 1965 (on a historical note, it blew its top on the day John F. Kennedy arrived in San Jose to visit the country), but geologists have determined that there is still magma beneath the volcano. We put our hands on the sand and it was very warm!

When we looked very closely, we saw the grains of sand moved around as if by magic, without the assistance of wind or human intervention. We learned there are magnetic anomalies at the volcano. One girl had grains of sand jump to her bracelet and cling there!

We saw stray flowers blooming on the spanning, lunar landscape, but overall the flattest part of the park looked desolate. Bordering it were steep inclines covered in thick vegetation—namely a comical looking plant called Sombrilla del Pobre, or Poor Man’s Umbrella, so named because the leaves are enormous—large enough to keep someone dry in a light rain.

Animal life was scare on the volcano, though we did see a few birds. The children found a dead hummingbird with iridescent blue and green wings. They took pity on the little body and buried it in the sand.

We spent quite a while hiking around (we noticed the thinner air!), and the kids had a great time. We took a break for lunch and then headed back home. Erin and I were wiped out by Tuesday night, but we had a fantastic time.

Wanna see what I’m talking about? You can click here to see more photos (with captions!) of our adventure. (Try the slideshow feature; you can use the pause button if you want to spend more time on a photo.)

Ribs and bananas

Sadly, I'm not talking about tasty ribs hot off the grill and dripping in sauce; the title refers to Dan's ribs, at least one of which is likely broken.

Dan has been playing basketball at the girls' school on Monday nights with a friend and some other guys. A week ago, he took an elbow shot to the side and had a hard time catching his breath for a few minutes. Now he's got a busted rib, is done with basketball, and hasn't been able to run for a week. Apparently ribs are slow to heal. Good thing we have an ample supply of ibuprofen in the house.

On a lighter note, thought I'd share a rather ordinary experience I had this morning that made me laugh.

I was driving down the highway at about 7:30, following a rickety little truck with a mountain of pineapples in the back and large bunches of bananas hanging off the sides. The truck was very slow-moving, so I changed to the left lane to get by. The funny thing was, as I passed the truck, the driver was grooving out to something on the radio and eating a banana. One less to sell, I guess, but at least we know he endorses his product.

Talk about a job with appeal! (That one was for you, Dad!)

A rare Garbage Fairy sighting!

Check it out! After two months, I finally saw the Garbage Fairy at my house! I know this isn't the best picture, but after he left my driveway I had to stealthily poke my head out the door with a camera to my eye. The GF might have thought I was some kind of crazy gringa (who me?!?) if he'd seen me, so the situation called for the utmost discretion and cat-like reactions from the photog.

And...this is the coolest GF update of all...I set another box out about an hour after the Garbage Fairy left that day and it was gone 30 minutes later. This is guy is good, I tell you. He must have trash radar.

I know he is a masculine-looking fairy, but I'm pretty sure he has special wings under his shirt made of recycled paper and plastic bags from the Auto Mercado. Cool dude.

Mama Mia Pizzeria

Our family loves pizza, but we've found that pizza delivery can easily cost 30 to 40 dollars—too much to spend too often. So six weeks ago, I decided I'd make my homemade pizza regularly and for just a few dollars for two pizzas. And with that, a young tradition of Pizza Night was born.

Tuesdays are busy here. Between work (Dan), drama class (Erin), and soccer (Lauren), our family doesn't get home until 5:30. Since pizza is quick to make once the dough rises,Tuesday night became Pizza Night.

I've always enjoyed making pizza dough, but I had a small challenge—I had to figure out how much yeast, in teaspoons, was in a packet of yeast that I'd find in the US. Here, yeast is sold in small containers with lids and is actually quite cheap. I have to admit, I screwed up the calculation the first time I proofed my yeast and ended up with yeast bubbling over the small bowl. It was pretty funny. (I should have taken a picture of that!) I recalculated and found my mistake; now my pizza dough turns out just right every time.

We've even experimented to see which brand of mozzarella we like best. Everyone admits that Tuesdays are fun now, and Pizza Night has become one of their favorite nights of the week.

¡Buen provecho!

A laid-back kinda Sunday

At about 6:00 this morning, Dan got up and opened the curtains and windows in our bedroom. We just laid in bed for a while and enjoyed the cool breeze and the radiant sunshine. Yes, sunshine!! It was so wonderful to see everything so fresh and green and light. Our spirits were lifted by the (albeit short-lived) disappearance of the storm clouds; such a beautiful start to the day.

After church we went out to lunch with some friends of ours to an Italian place in Escazú called La Fabbrica. The kids sat at one table, and we shared a second table with two other couples. The conversation was lively and the food was fantastic. (The girls each ordered thin crust, wood-fired margherita pizzas and both ate the whole thing—all 12 slices!) Dan and I are looking forward to trying out the tomato, mozzarella, and basil salad when we return for another meal.

After lunch (around 3pm—restaurant meals are generally long affairs here) we came home, and just outside our house we saw three great kiskadees sitting on some little trees. A great kiskadee is a fairly common bird in our area, about the size of a pigeon with a brilliant yellow breast and belly, and a white band blazing around his jet black head.

I haven’t yet purchased a Costa Rica birds field guide yet (though I plan to soon), but I’m fortunate enough to be in an online group with Henry Kantrowitz, a naturalist and cofounder of the Birding Club of Costa Rica. I described the birds to him, and he knew immediately what I was talking about. Above you can see the great kiskadee in a photo I got from Wikipedia.

To continue with weather updates: It’s been raining again this afternoon and tonight, but it’s softer rain and so we have the windows open and the lower temperature is very pleasant. Good weather for watching football on my couch and finishing my book. And best of all, tomorrow is a national holiday here—no school, no work, no worries.

¡Pura Vida!

It’s raining, it’s pouring…this weather's getting boring.

All right, I don’t mean to complain, but well, I’ve just gotta be honest here about the weather we’ve been experiencing recently. We are at the height of the green season and awash in precipitation. Want to know why I’m not blogging about fabulous trips to exotic locales in Costa Rica? I’ll tell you why—we’re waiting for this weather to subside. There’s no sense in driving to a volcano if you can’t see the darn thing, right?

I’ve lived in a climate (hellooooo Seattle!) where the skies were cloudy all day, but I seem to recall the rain more as drizzly there. This is something else—I’m telling you, it’s a lot of rain!

So far, for the most part, I’ve enjoyed the green season. The mornings have been lovely and sunny, the afternoons wet, and the evenings clear and starry. I usually like rainstorms, and this pattern of sun, rain, and nighttime was nice and comforting.

We were warned that October was one of the rainiest months, and now we know that was no joke; everything is ultra-soggy. Rain during the day, rain during the night—mucha lluvia everywhere we go. The kids had school inside waterlogged clouds this last week, and our dehumidifier makes the rounds from room to room, filling up in fast time. A couple of nights ago Erin’s comforter was so damp I had to throw it in the clothes dryer for a few minutes. Hey, the temps have been fantastic, in the 60s and 70s. Trust me, amigos, it’s truly not the heat—it absolutely is the humidity.

A Tico friend of ours called on Wednesday to ask how we’re doing with the constant showers. He assured me that we are getting a lot more rain than normal this year (surprise!) and that oddly enough, in January and February we’ll be aching for a rainstorm—but mercifully, he added that by December the weather should be spectacular here in the valley.

I miss swimming in our pretty pool, admiring the verdant scenery, and enjoying the gorgeous Costa Rica mountains. And it's worrying hearing about all the people affected by devastating mudslides, floods, and washouts.

Sunny months ahead? Bring ‘em on!

Fill ‘er up!

Not too long ago I was in Ohio, fussing about the skyrocketing price of gas and feeling the shock of paying big bucks at the pump.

While I still understand this frustration for friends and family in the US, my sympathy has waned in the last months as we've paid $50 to fill up the tank on an economy car. Gas prices are high here and going up. Regular is selling for about 584 colones a liter in Costa Rica—that’s about $4.25 a gallon for us gringos.

Interestingly enough, the price of gas isn’t published on giant marquees as it is in the US. You don’t know what you’ll pay until you pull up to the pump, but since the government regulates the price of gas, it doesn’t matter which gas station you frequent—a liter of gas costs the same throughout the nation.

These fixed prices eliminate driving around for a bargain—but even if prices were varied and published, gas stations are scarce enough once you leave highly populated areas of the central valley that when you see one, you’re just happy it’s there. (Even in the central valley there are not stations every few blocks, as often seen in the United States, and you need to know where the gas stations are.) We have seen maps on which the only landmarks are gasolineras.

Thankfully Dan no longer has a gas-guzzling commute and we have a couple of gas stations not far from here.

On the flip of all this is the nicest thing about getting gas in Costa Rica: The stations are all full-service, just like they used to be in the United States. You just tell the attendant what type of gas you’d like and he offers to check your oil, the air in your tires, or to clean your windshield. What a pleasure!

It’s too bad we haven’t seen a resurgence of full-service up north in the middle of winter. Chalk it up to one of the many things I will miss about Costa Rica when our time here ends.

Cotton candy in the sky

During the rainy season, the sky at dusk is typically overcast and dreary, often opening itself up with drizzles and downpours. Not so on Wednesday, when we were blessed with a breathtaking start to the night.

Erin and I looked out our back window as we were setting the table for dinner and were amazed. The sky was darkening—a clear, striking blue—and on a large stretch of the horizon were white, billowy clouds. They started to rise as we watched them in wonder, but in the photo I caught the top of the mountain shyly peeking from behind.

Can you hear me now?

We are using a cell phone that our landlady is providing until our landline is installed. There has been an order for the line for more than two months (the order sign posted in my street-facing window tells me so), and we have no choice but to wait for the line. ICE (“eee-say”) is the country’s telecommunications monopoly, and we’re at their mercy. ICE has a monopoly on power and cell phones, too.

You’d think that with a monopoly we’d pay a hefty price for phone service, but really it’s only about $9 a month for our cell phone—because ICE is government owned, it has a restricted pricing structure.

When we first came to Costa Rica there were waiting lists for new cell phone numbers. Now ICE says it has plenty of numbers available, and so we’re about ready to get a cell phone of our own.

While it’s frustrating not having a landline after so many weeks, and just one cell phone for our entire family at the moment, it’s great paying so little for our phone service each month.

And that’s no phoney baloney!